Isn’t It Ironic
When I told my family and friends I would be going to
Siberia for the summer, they asked, “Is your mother doing this to punish you?”
and “Isn’t it, like 40 below there?” and even a couple asked, “Siberia is
somewhere in Africa, right?” After
spending five weeks in Barnaul, I have come to view Siberia as an extremely
beautiful and sacred place that has grown very close to my heart, nothing like
the prison in a snowy tundra that many imagine. It is ironic that for our
entire stay, the weather has been in the 90’s and humid, leaving all of us dripping
in sweat and wishing we had brought more summer clothes. My whole stay has left
me thinking of all the other humorous little ironies and quirks I have come to
discover about the real Siberia, good, bad, and mystical.
During my time here many things have left me baffled and
confused. I asked and asked for answers and never seemed to get any. Why does
everyone wake up early to sweep their front stoops that are only made of dirt?
With such bad mosquitoes this particular summer, why hasn’t anyone sprayed for
them, or even easier, why doesn’t anyone put any screens in their windows? If
the people here are so connected to nature and care about the land and worship
the Altai Gods, why do they allow the trains to dump all their human waste
straight onto the tracks, toilet paper and feminine products included? Why
hasn’t anyone bothered to build more plumbing in public places so there are fewer
overflowing, smelly outhouses? How come the Russian standard of a “level”
surface for a new sidewalk still has craters as big as a barbecue pit? and why
do their women still walk the streets every day in six-inch-heels and summer
dresses? (All I know is that the one time I walked on the sidewalks with my two-inch-heels
I tripped, my dress flew up, and I gave some nearby onlookers an authentic
American show).
As a biology major and a feminist, I love science and I am
very passionate about women’s equality. In a country that is partly known for
its chivalrous ways, I knew I would be confronted with some ideals different
from my own. But what I find the most interesting and confusing is not just the
way that men will offer me their seat on a crowded metro or help to carry my
fifty-pound suitcase up the stairs of the train station, but the very specific
rules there are for women regarding their bodies. Tired and sweaty after
standing throughout the entire Orthodox Mass one Sunday, I went outside to cool
off. I sat down on the cool stone steps, despite warnings of the Russian
babushkas that would scold me for attempting to freeze my uterus, making myself
infertile for life. As if on cue, a babushka did eventually run over to me
appearing very worried and yelling at me in Russian. Although I understand
these women are only trying to protect me and my fragile ovaries, the scientist
in me does not understand how anyone could even possibly believe this to be
true. There absolutely no science behind
the thought that the temperature of a rock outside in 70degree Fahrenheit
weather could travel through my skin, muscle and fat layers to hurt my
fertility in any way. Another time, after riding our horses to the top of a
mountain towards a sacred lake, we were informed by our guide that men should
remove all head-coverings and most clothes but women were all instructed to put
on head coverings and wear as much clothing as possible. The reason for this is
so men could gain more wisdom from the spirits above with an uncovered head,
but women could keep their bodies warm in order to protect their eggs. Whether
or not these beliefs are simply rooted in tradition, the lack of scientific
evidence frustrated and confused me.
Ultimately I have
decided that Siberia is very different from any other place I have ever
experienced, and science did not measure the beauty and kindness I saw. Just
because the people here think and do things much differently, these things are
not wrong. Siberia has helped me to appreciate different beliefs and traditions,
whether rooted in science or not. Because these beliefs are as much a part of
Siberia as the snow, the scorching heat and the caring babushkas, I choose to
believe that walking around barefoot without any slippers truly does cause colds,
and that it’s best for my future children if I cover my head when I’m by a
sacred lake.