By John Kuebler, Hobart College '16 & Soren Anders-MacLeod, Hobart College '18
After having celebrated the culmination of our language classes
with a dinner and a farewell to our Russian teachers the night before, we
boarded the bus again on Saturday morning to leave for our final excursion.
This weekend’s trip was to the Multinsky lakes region near the border of
Kazahkstan and was the farthest that we have been from Barnaul this trip. With
a total transport time of thirteen hours, we made a couple of stops along the
way.
One of these stops was a
tour of a regional botanical garden. The garden had a collection of more than
1200 plants from the Altai region and from the rest of the world. Many of the
local plants were ones that we had seen previously on other weekend excursions
and we were able to get an overview of some of these plants and their
importance to the region and its people.
Particularly interesting
to us was hearing about the use of many of these regional plants in medicinal
and herbal teas. On our past excursions we have frequently seen different
vendors selling assortments of different flowers and leaves for the making of
herbal tea. It was fascinating to match this past experience to the guides’
explanation of the many different plants and their uses to the people of this
region. We were able to learn more about how this region uses traditional
medicine to treat a huge variety of ailments and gained a greater understanding
of the importance of natural remedies to this region.
After the botanical
gardens we continued our bus ride through the Altaian countryside. The long
journey took us through many small farming villages and through some beautiful
parts of the region, passing next to the Katun river for much of the trip.
After avoiding the obstacles of the herds of cows and the road construction, we
were able to make it to our destination where we had a late dinner
at our hotel.
The following morning we
took an expedition to the Red (Krasnaya) Mountains, a large dormant volcano
surrounded by nine lakes fed by the peaks glaciers. The drive was too offroad
for us to take the bus, so we were able to take several offroad vans during the
three hour drive to the base of the mountain. The drive was long and very
bumpy, but it also contained some of best views of the rural countryside and
the Altaian mountains that we have seen so far. The route took us through
several types of forests and meadows, where we could see eagles as well as
hundreds of wild cows and horses.
Upon arrival at the base
of the mountain, we set out on foot to see three of the glacial lakes and climb
the mountain a little bit. The first lake we could only see from a distance
because of a cliff, but the second one we were able to wade in. The view from
the edge of the second lake was stunning with several waterfalls and glaciers
forming the perfect backdrop to the bright blue water. We spent a little bit of
time on the shore of this lake just taking in the scenery and the wild beauty
of the mountain. A few of us took the opportunity to go swimming in the frigid
water, while the rest of the group was smart enough to stay on the shore of the
lake.
After some time at this
lake, we continued our hike to an observation point looking over the highest
lake on the mountain as well as the entire valley we had driven though on our
ride up. This trail followed a stream up the side of the mountain and was a
fairly steep path. Though the trail was quite pretty, passing waterfalls and
patches of bright purple flowers, it seemed like the whole group was pretty
happy when we got to the third lake. While this lake did not have quite as nice
of a backdrop, we found an observation point on a cliff where we were able to
see all three lakes at the same time looking down the mountain.
After spending some time
at the top of the lake admiring the amazing view, we headed back down the
mountain and met the buses at the trailhead for a picnic lunch. We had a great
lunch in a grove of enormous ancient cedar trees. Some of us hiked down the
hill to the first lake to see the view from the shore, while the others opted
to enjoy the picnic spot and have some rest time after lunch. Following this,
we packed up and got in the vans for the long road back down the mountain.
The following day our
excursion was planned for Multinsky lakes, and a short hike with a picnic
overlooking a lake. The road for this expedition was even steeper and so we set
out in a group of off-road vehicles. The path to get to the lake took us over
the top of a mountain, and the road went almost straight up the side. The drive
went pretty well at first, and the large off-road truck did fine until we came
to one particularly steep section of the trail. There, because of rains
the previous several days, the truck kept sliding backwards and losing
traction. The driver tried for thirty minutes to go up the same slope but
accomplished nothing except for knocking off a mud flap driving over a boulder patch. As it became apparent that the truck was not going to be
able to go up the mud on this steep trail, we decided to cut our losses and
attempt a different route which went around the back of the mountain. This
worked well at first, but approximately 5 minutes down the road the truck got
stuck in the mud, which went past the bottom of the driver’s door.
Without the rest of the
group, who had made it up the initial hill, we exited the vehicle and began to
climb the hill to meet up with the rest of the group. Our excellent guide and
translator, Igor, took the lead and brought us up and around the side of the
mountain until we had found the main path. Our truck had been carrying the bulk
of our picnic lunch, and so the meal was slightly delayed, giving our group the
opportunity to play cards and take naps. The food was worth the wait, and our
lunch consisted of a beef stew, fish salad sandwiches, tea, and plates of
tomatoes and cucumbers. The bounty of the Altai is unbounded, and on our
post-luncheon stroll we recognized a number of plants from the botanical
gardens, all of which could serve as the basis for an herbal tea, in addition
to a small cluster of shamanic mushrooms.
Eventually the very talented drivers were able to extricate our truck from the mud, and we rode in the back of a pickup to the junction where we’d been delayed. We returned that afternoon to the hotel for a brief rest before setting off for the Roerich Museum. While we were replacing our damp socks with dry pairs and our boots for tapachki, all 17 of us were more or less engaged in the same conversation. Namely, we were all remarking on the natural beauty we had borne witness to earlier that day and
comparing the landscape with that of
the day before.
Our
professor shared with us an interesting etymological point about the Russian
words for “red” and “beautiful”. The two words have a similar sounding root,
which allows “beautiful” to be corrupted through common usage to “red”. This
makes it difficult to determine without research whether a Russian place
bearing the name “red” is so named because of an association with the Soviet
regime, whether its name comes from a colloquial distortion of the word
“beautiful”, or whether some dialectic between these two causes produces the
name red. In any event, this linguistic peculiarity leaves the Red Mountains
with the potential for a double name, i.e. the Beautiful Mountains. The
unanimous consensus among our band of travelers is that all of the peaks we saw
this weekend more than live up to such a name.
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